Joystick - final installation

Rudder pedals - part 2

The pics show the bolts required for the final assembly. It is best to shim the slider side plates just enough to ensure an easy sliding action fore and aft. This will result in "play". The play is removed once the M10 tightening bolt is fastened.

Rudder pedals - part 1

To assemble your rudder pedals you will need 2 reamers (1/4" and 5/16") and two taps (8-32 UNF and 10-32 UNF).

Cockpit interior - textured finish

I use a "stone chip" automotive water based primer to achieve the textured finish. Spray it on at low pressure. Practice on a scrap piece to get the desired roughness. Once this has thoroughly dried I spray on a "2k" automotive paint to seal the primer.

I have also included a few other pics showing some other cockpit details. The ends of the canopy arms I made "jetisonable". If one does serious gliding you're likely to be flying often in close proximity to other gliders. The chances of bumping into someone are pretty good. Seeing as I own 2 parachutes and have the deepened seats I figured they may as well be the seat cushions! In the event of having to "step outside" you may as well have the canopy out of your way. The rod ends and tube will depart from the canopy arms if opened in flight. They are attached with body putty. On the ground if running the engine with the canopy open or in strong wind one would lock these to the canopy arms with a short capscrew tapped into the canopy arm.

Dual throttles

I have decided to have a standard "cessna type" plunge throttle in the centre of the aircraft just ahead of the stick and another throttle lever just to the left of the pilots left leg. This arrangement will be very comfortable for the left seat guy and reasonably comfortable for whoever is flying from the right (instructor probably).

I find it difficult to fly with my left hand on the stick and right hand controlling throttle and airbrake. I find that during the flare I sometimes confuse the airbrake with the stick. If you are too low and suddenly think you are reducing airbrake but in fact shove the stick forward it tends to be an eye opener!! When flying from the right I will therefore use my right hand on the centre stick and left hand on the throttle. When needing airbrake I will have both arms crossed!! Sounds very awkward but works for me! All of this because this old dog cannot learn a new trick!

A have included a pic of the torque tube I am using to get across to the left throttle lever. It is now installed inside the seat module. I glassed the 2 vesconite bushes in place. More pics to follow.

Fitting the wheel spats

This involves bending the aluminium bracket so that it conforms with the spat. You also need to cut a slot into the rear spat half for the gear leg. I like to position the spat as low as possible (for least drag) but make sure that there is at aleast 12mm gap between the top of the tyre and the inside of the spat. The cutout for the tyre is also best kept as small as possible. The actual bend angles for the brackets can be obtained from the pics. Remember to install a mud bulkhead aft of the tyre. If you don't the spat fills with mud and dirt. Apart from being heavy this can jam the tyre once it hardens.

Final assembly

Once all the parts are painted and you start screwing it all together the fun really starts!

Cowl flaps

For initial test flying I like to make sure of adequate cooling. My exit cowl flap is capable of deflecting to quite an aggressive angle. I can fine tune this later and possibly reduce its travel. I am still figuring out the mechanism to control the cowl flap.

Fuel filler cap cover

I used a short piece of hinge material to make the slider for the catch (as per the pictures supplied with the manual)

Instrument panel mock up

I am on the waiting list for an MGL Voyager. My plan is to have very little in the panel apart from the Voyager. I recently flew an RV with one of these installed and it is amazing what it can do. Once it arrives I will finalise the panel. In the interim here is the "mock up"

Horizontal stab fairings

These little mouldings save a lot of time. They can either be left loose and simply taped in position or they can be bonded to the stab. I elected to do the latter.